Introduction
Spiti Valley, known for its breathtaking beauty and profound tranquility, is often regarded as the land of Lord Shiva and Goddess Parvati, where the divine energy of these deities resonates through its rugged landscapes. Legend has it that Goddess Parvati, the embodiment of Shakti and divine feminine energy, resides in these valleys alongside Lord Shiva. Together, they represent the cosmic balance of creation and destruction, peace and power, symbolizing the spiritual harmony that the Spiti Valley offers.
Spiti, as the land of Shiva & Parvati, is more than a destination—it’s a spiritual pilgrimage, a journey into the heart of the divine.
Preparation
“By failing to prepare, you are preparing to fail.”
― Benjamin Franklin
Spiti Valley needs no introduction and instead of talking about the Valley itself, I would like to share our self-drive road trip experiences, learnings and more importantly, the detailed preparation prior to the trip.
So we started with the basic thumb-rule of preparing for such a trip: Plan for the worst, while hoping for the best!
I would like to break this process into three parts - Research & Planning, Personal Preparation and Vehicle Preparation.
In an earlier travelogue published on this blog, I had shared some of my learnings on the basic ‘Do’s & Don’ts’ for hiking & trekking. While readers may like to read through it, couple of those tips such as ‘Know your route’ and ‘HumInt (Human-Intelligence)’ remain on top of the self-driving off-road trip to the Spiti as well.
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| Spiti Valley - When God Paints ... |
Know your Destination
It is important to start the process with extensive reading and research on the travel route and destination. Getting to know the travel route, topography, terrain, elevation, seasons, tourist points of interest (Nature, Adventure, Historial, Religious, Spiritual etc); much before closing in on the dates and confirming bookings. Data collated from this research helps plan the trip forward, personalise it to fit into individual preferences and prepare accordingly.
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| Our Route Map for Spiti |
Personal Preparation
The climate in Spiti Valley is extreme, with long, harsh winters, during which the region is cut off from the rest of the world due to heavy snowfall. Summer, though short, is the best time to visit, as the valley opens up to travellers, offering stunning views and thrilling adventures like trekking, mountain biking, and camping. After the monsoons in July & August, Spiti Valley turns out even better with a lot more colours added to it. This however is an even smaller window of about 2-3 weeks, fraught with unpredictable landslides across Himachal Pradesh, lower temperatures in the valley and onset of winters (snowfall) by the end of September. But then: “Risk Hai Toh Ishq Hai (रिस्क है तो इश्क है)” – हर्षद मेहता SCAM 1992
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| Rakchham, Spiti Valley: Colours during September |
The best way to start preparing & packing for the trip to Spiti Valley would be to underestimate our physical potential, endurance & threshold; always respect & overestimate nature’s fury, especially while in the Greater Himalayas.
High-altitude cold-deserts of the Greater Himalayas in Spiti Valley with dramatic landscapes and rugged mountains can be very unpredictable in terms of weather & roads at the same time.
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| Spiti Valley: Snow Capped Greater Himalayas |
Acute Mountain Sickness (AMS)
First and foremost is the often talked about factor of thin-air with reduced oxygen levels, as we move up through the elevation and reach a point of 8-9000 Ft above sea level, with an average Spiti Valley altitude of 12,500 feet (Kaza). This symptom is commonly known as Acute Mountain Sickness (AMS). Some common symptoms of AMS may include but are not limited to: Dizziness, Fatigue, Headache, Shortness of breath, Loss of Appetite, Sleep disturbances to name a few.
For us being normal healthy couple, without any pre-existing medical condition, this could be well managed by maintaining healthy eating habits and avoiding sudden increase in altitude levels. With sleeping stopovers at every 400-500 metres of elevation, acclimatising with the reduced levels of Oxygen, enjoying leisure walks together and never pushing physical endurance to test our lungs.
Needless to mention, it is important to absolutely avoid consumption of nicotine and alcohol or any such substances.
In case one develops any AMS symptoms, the best non-medical advice is to return back to the last sleep stopover, thereby reducing elevation at least by 400-500 metres. There are medicines and detailed procedures to follow to treat AMS - readers are advised to consult their personal physician as well to prepare for the same.
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| Nako, Spiti Valley |
The terrain of Spiti Valley is very different in that it can be very hot during the day due to strong sun with very high UV, at a high altitude of 12000 feet; and cold by the night. So we planned and packed our clothing accordingly. Hat, Sunglasses & Sunscreen at easy reach during the day and Lip Guard, Cold Cream by the evenings greatly helps in preparedness towards quick change in temperatures.
We carried our basic first-aid set of medicines as per our personal preferences and requirements. Medication for Fever, Cold, Vomiting and Headache however must be included.
We also carried packaged drinking water with us to avoid change in water from place to place, even though potable drinking water is available almost everywhere through the valley, may be even better quality than the packaged one!
We took this self-drive road trip at the age of 59 & 55 respectively; so we also carried a BP Monitor, Oximeter and a small consumable oxygen cylinder. However, God had been so kind that none of it was ever used during the trip.
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| Kunzum Devi, Kunzum Pass, Lahaul-Spiti (elev. 4,551 m or 14,931 ft) |
Vehicle Preparation
Spiti’s remoteness, unspoiled beauty, and rich cultural heritage make it a captivating destination for those seeking solitude & adventure in the lap of the Himalayas, through a self-drive road trip. Exploring Spiti Valley assumes an entirely different dimension and an incredible experience in a self-driven vehicle. Frequent detours and stopovers, either to explore hidden gems of remote places that go beyond the typical tourist circuit or just to take stunning pictures during the Golden Hour.
“Plan for what is difficult while it is easy, do what is great while it is small.”
― Sun Tzu, The Art of War
Ground Clearance or FWD?
Before we proceed further on this subject, one very basic question that flashes through most travellers would be whether we necessarily need a 4x4 (FWD) vehicle for Spiti. The answer is an emphatic NO, if planning the trip during tourist season, that is May to September. The only thing that is utmost important is the Ground Clearance.
Trivia: ‘Maruti Alto’ is popularly known as ‘Lord Alto’ in Spiti Valley by the locals and is a popular choice of their daily commute.
Another point to note while on the subject is the fact that it is the driving techniques & skills that are put to test in Spiti Valley and not the 4x4 (FWD) monsters. What is avoidable however is the Sedan with a low GC. As a thumb rule, one can safely assume a Ground Clearance of 180 mm as good enough to explore Spiti Valley during the season. However if planning for a Winter Spiti road trip, one definitely needs a full on FWD due to snow.
So that should put away all doubts of a 4x4 (FWD) to rest.
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| Chhitkul: The last village of India, with the Cleanest Air, (elev. 3,450 m or 11,320 ft) |
Vehicle Service
Our vehicle had clocked about 5000 odd KMs after the last service, so we decided to get the complete service done. In case it is just about 2000 KMs since the last service, it would still be advisable to go through a detailed check up.
The vehicle also behaves differently at high altitude due to reduced Oxygen levels in Spiti Valley. A poorly serviced vehicle may go completely dead and not start the next morning, pushing the schedule for the day by a good 3-4 hours, before it finally cranks. Or while traversing through the extreme off road patches, the worn out brakes or clutch plate may not survive the trip.
Briefly, following are quick check-points that I had prepared in detail for the workshop and ensured they are thoroughly checked while getting the vehicle serviced & prepared for the trip:
Any rattling or strange noises, Battery & Electricals, Brakes & Brake Fluid, Bearings, Oils & Coolant, Filters, Clutch Plates, Tyres, Suspensions, Wheel balancing & alignment, Belts, Wipers, any Leakages, Underbelly.
Tools and Vehicle Maintenance Kit
Getting our vehicle stuck in the middle of nowhere in Spiti Valley and not having the required tools & maintenance kit can be a real dampener of the trip. A checklist of some DIY tools & items that we ensured were always available in our car is shared below:
Tire Puncture Repair Kit, Jumper Cable, Tow Strap or Rope, Jack & Lug Wrench, Spare Tyre, Basic Tool Kit with Wrenches, Screwdrivers, Pliers, Adjustable spanners; Duct & Scotch Tapes, Engine Oil, Battery Water, Coolant & Windshield Washer Fluid, Portable Air Compressor, Fuel Jerry Can with Funnel, Flash Light, Spare Key
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| The Highest Bridge in Asia - Chicham Bridge: (elev. 13,596 ft) |
Self Driving through Spiti Valley
Driving around the city is different from driving on highways and driving on highways is different from driving through the Himalayas in Spiti Valley. Each one is a very different skill set by itself that needs proper training & practice. In case one has never driven around the mountains, it would be advisable to venture into Spiti Valley with your own vehicle only after you have practised driving through some mountain ranges in the nearby locations.
To start with, driving through Spiti Valley needs a lot more patience than normal. Covering 900 KMs of Spiti circuit, with an average speed of 20-25 kmph can be extremely challenging for the urban drivers. But this is the best way to truly enjoy and soak in the beauty of magnificent Greater Himalayas.
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| Malling Nalla: One of the most dangerous points, due to Shooting Stones & Landslides (elev. 3,875 m or 12,713 ft) |
Driving Tips & Trivia
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| Chandra Taal (Moon Lake), Spiti Valley (elev. 4,300 m or 14,100 ft) |
Sharing below some of the precautions & learnings that we followed to ensure a safe and enjoyable journey through the valley.
Tyre Pressure:
Optimum air pressure range for tyres is recommended for normal terrains and conditions. Spiti dirt tracks are covered with sharp stones through major parts of the route and there is a possibility these may damage or cut through the tyres with optimum air pressure. We reduced the tyre pressure by 10% from the optimum levels to counter this and it worked perfectly fine, without having a flat or damaged tyre even once. Likewise, it is usual practice to reduce the tyre pressure by as much as 50% while driving through the desert terrain, to avoid getting stuck in the soft sand.
Laden Weight:
Load carrying capacity of the vehicle is important not only from mileage point of view but also the engine performance; especially on a tough & challenging route of Spiti Valley. We were mindful of this while planning & packing our luggage, even though our vehicle has excellent laden weight carrying capacity. This is yet another strange experience we had after reaching the altitude of 10,000 Ft and while crossing a steep elevation with sharp U-turns; the engine starts to sound a little different and there is this distinct feel of the vehicle making that extra effort to pull itself.
Fuel Management:
This is a call we must take depending upon the fuel-tank capacity of our vehicle and the mileage (KMs / Full Tank). Fuel stations these days are available through the Spiti route and if planned well, with little bit of local intel and advance info, we need not carry extra fuel in the jerry-can at all. We did precisely that and partially fueled up at three stations through the Valley - Theog, ReckongPeo & Kaza. But we were told at Kaza station that they were running out of fuel and the supply tanker was expected only next morning due to the landslide. Which means if we were completely out of fuel, we would need to stay back the extra night in Kaza and face long queues the next morning, that is only if the tanker arrives. There is no filling station between Kaza & Manali and that happens to be the longest, most dangerous & challenging part of the Spiti route.
In nutshell, carrying extra fuel in a 20L jerry-can is the safest bet but then it adds that much extra weight - however, it can be avoided with a little bit of fuel management and planning.
The Morning Drill:
I used to check the coolant and oil levels, yes every single morning, start the vehicle and leave the engine idling for about ten minutes before we moved, since it is a Diesel vehicle. With all the above precautions and care, we never had to crank our vehicle even twice, except at Chandrataal, where it took two long cranks before the engine started. The Scorpio parked next to us had gone completely dead and wont crank.
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| Tani Jubbar Lake: A Hidden Unexplored Gem |
This is very personal but if you are a first-timer to Spiti and driving either solo or couple, that is not in a group, strongly recommend having a local driver-cum-guide accompany you all through the trip. Our reasoning having one was on following points:
The explorer in you would need someone to help you with those hidden trails of the valley, not covered by the usual tourist circuit. Quite often these are unspoiled and ‘too good to be missed’ spots. Just to share as an example, nobody takes the off-road track beyond Mudh Village in PIN Valley - after driving ten KMs on that track we reached the most beautiful spot, deep inside PIN Valley - a dead end so beautiful, we would never like to take a U-turn.
The photographer in you will always need someone to capture those precious moments and memories, with yourself included.
The foodie in you will need someone to guide you to the best places for local food & delicacies. We will never forget the taste of that ‘Kadhi-Chawal’ we picked up from a completely non-descript small little dhaba on the way to Sangla, that would never get noticed otherwise.
We were very fortunate to get Anuj Tejwan, young & energetic, 23-something, full of life and a true Himachali in soul & spirits, excellent driver and above all an avid photographer. We would never have heard such beautiful folk music of Himachal, if not for his playlist.
Hum-Int (Human Intelligence)
The mountains can be extremely unpredictable in terms of weather and roads, more so if it is Spiti Valley. The most authentic source of updates on these counts is Human Intelligence. So I always reached out to have a friendly chat with the locals, fellow cabs and tourists to exchange & share info with them. Before hitting the road next morning, it's good practice to have some real time updates and be better prepared. Locals in the Himalayas, by their very nature, are humble and sincere people, always willing to help.
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| The Iconic Chacha Chachi Dhaba |
Himalayan Wisdom: Life in Spiti Valley is very different compared to the plains. They have their own ecosystem, survival modes & instincts, societal norms and values etc. There is so much to learn from them and get a sense of what I call ‘Himalayan Wisdom’. As visiting tourists, we just need to ensure that we do not disturb the locals in any way, and never leave behind any toxic waste & garbage, in terms of materials and / or ideas.
The Final Analysis
To be honest, I was mentally prepared to spend one full day at the workshop at Manali, fixing up several issues in the car after completing the Spiti Circuit. It is considered normal practice to take a day off at Manali, recovering from such an adventurous & tiring nine-day road trip, for us and for the vehicle too.
With the help of all our planning towards personal care & vehicle preparation, driving-skills, Anuj Tejwan; and above everything else, God’s blessings, we just spent an hour at the car-wash at Manali. Next morning we hit the highway again for three more days, before we reached home.
All pictures shared in this travelogue are from my personal archives. Feel free to click them to see in full resolution. In case you like these and curious to see more pictures from my collection, please visit the gallery here.
Wow nicely penned adventure of your trip with and lovely pictures . Seeing the photographs I was mesmerised by the beauty of the valley. The picture of bridge WOW. I wish If I can u turn my age by 20 yrs to see this lovely place. Thanks for share the beauty of Spiti valley.
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